Genoa food guide

Genoa is a port city that never softened itself for visitors, and the food is better for it. Real focaccia is eaten standing at 9am, oily on the fingers, from a bakery that has done nothing else since 1952. Pesto here is a religion, not a sauce. Walk the caruggi of the centro storico, ignore the trofie-and-photo menus on the main drag, and follow the Genovesi into the side alleys.